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Le Sommelier Mixed Case: Clos Lentiscus
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Tasting NotesThis mixed case features two bottles of three amazing wines from producer Clos Lentiscus, located in Penedès, Spain. All wines are organic, biodynamic, natural, and vegan. Perill Blanc Amphora 2018 This is 1938-planted Xarello from El Buschet vineyard, in the mineral-laden Garraf Mountains sub zone. After picking and leaving with stems on skins for 15 days, this spends 6 months in amphora before a light filtration and bottling. Pouring a shining yellow gold with a very light haze, this streams tight apricot, pear skin, crab apple, young mirabelle plum, and rambutan along a slight palate, rinsed with bergamot astringency, and grippy from time in amphora. Acidity is stencilled and brisk. Very natural, clean, and unique. Perill Negre Sumoll 2012 Give this wine, from 1939-planted Sumoll vines, time to breathe upon opening. This was native fermented and aged in both large old amphora and foudre, and saw no sulphur. Rustic, wild, soft and subtle, with long, supple tannins supporting dark raspberries, wild cherries, bayberries, thyme and clay. The medium palate is textural and haunting. Perill Negre Carinyena 2016 From old Carignan vines planted by Manel’s grandfather in the 1930s, this spent 25 days on skins in a mix of barrel, amphora, and foudre while fermenting native, prior to resting 18-24 months in the same vessels prior to bottling, without sulphur. Pale in hue, this carries ripe summer strawberries, downy plum, worn leather, and is kissed with waves of balsamic. Tannins are long and fine, housing this textural wine to a lingering finish. Estimated time of delivery is 3-10 business days |
Critical PraiseIn 2001, Manel and his brother Joan returned to their family’s 14th century estate Can Ramon after the death of their father. Conventionally farming the land, their father sold the fruit instead of commercially selling wine. In the 19th and 20th centuries, Can Ramon had a successful history of selling wine to France and the American colonies (factors such as the Spanish Civil War, phylloxera and industrialization ultimately lead to its decline). Clos Lentiscus was created to recover the brilliance the estate once enjoyed and to continue the work of past generations. The estate is located at 740 feet in the small town of Sant Pere de Ribes near Sitges. To the northeast is the rugged land of the Garraf Mountains and to the south is the Mediterranean Sea. The property sits on a calcareous mass, with shallow soils containing marine fossils. The coastal climate and special soil contribute a unique mineral character. Organic (certified by CCPAE) and biodynamic farming methods have transformed the property into a living, breathing ecosystem. These methods are used to encourage a healthy estate with energy and soul, and thus wine with energy and soul. No pesticides or herbicides are used. The phases of the moon dictate planting, pruning, harvesting and bottling. Bee hives help pollination. Sheep fertilize the soil and graze the property to naturally control weeds. Plowing occurs with Ringo, the horse. The work in the cellar reflects the land; Manel interferes as little as possible. Primary and secondary fermentation occur with native yeast. Ambient yeast harvested from the wine tanks and honey harvested from their bees are used to spark the second fermentation in bottle. No other additions or enzymes are used. Manel stopped using sulphites when his wife got diagnosed with stomach cancer. While as natural as it gets, there is no funk. Elegance, purity and crisp minerality define Clos Lentiscus. |
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